Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Last Night in Taiwan

Back in Taipei, we spent the day and evening with Harrison. We went back to Taipei 101, bought lots of tea...explored a couple temples...had lots of food and drinks. As always, sad to say goodbye.

Now packing up, leaving early in the morning for the airport. Weird...


Green Island (Part II)

After trying to write about Green Island for a few days now, I've concluded with my time here I'm going to have to keep it simple. It was too much to get down succinctly at this point. Eddie, our South African host on Green Island called it paradise and, even with the language barrier, I have to agree.

The ferry was a little rough but we kept down our afternoon snack of steamed meat buns.

Our accommodations would have definitely challenge some people, but we did fine with it. I loved it. We stayed in a warehouse, tin roof held down with tires against the typhoons. Inside was concrete floor with bamboo partitions dividing the space into rooms eopen to the short drive way, road, and ocean. Showers were outside, separated by the same bamboo walls as inside. Inside the building next door, there was a kitchen of sink and double gas burner and the cooler of beer, meats, soda and snickers.

The day we arrived was quite windy, remnants of a typhoon in the Philippines. The first thing we did was get the scooters. Brand new scooters. Eddie took our bags to the hostel, and we drove ourselves. The  scooters were awesome!!! I might have run mine in between a metal traffic sign and a light pole. Damage = a crack and some scuffs on the front piece = $40 US dollars. After stressing that I'd have to pay for a whole new bike, I was totally ok with that. As cheesy as it sounds, the beauty of that island and it's shores stole all words, so sorry, I don't have much for you. Google Green Island, Taiwan. Maybe the pictures will scratch the surface enough to give you an idea. We'd putt-putt up a steep hill, and at the top - the scene...and the next was at least as beautiful. Always, every time.

Our first night Eddie hosted his last BBQ on the Island, as he is selling (has sold?) the business. Around the table was 21 people, Americans, French/Danish, Yukranians, Irish, Taiwanese and South African = the best part of traveling, especially staying at hostels. The conversation in those settings cannot be matched. Everyone walks away having learned something and, usually, with a different stride due to some preconceived perception blown to bits (or a new one made). We ate all the potato salad, coleslaw, and meat (steak and pork) we could eat, drank Taiwan Beer, Scotch, and smoked cigars. Dessert was tomatoes from the neighbors. So...good...and so much food.

The next day we lounged about, scooted about...the water was too rough to snorkel. We watched a lunar eclipse from our common living space overlooking the ocean. The second day we did snorkel - wooooooow. Close call at the first place we tried, the ocean was not so mellow, but the second place we tried had water so calm kids were out there. So beautiful!!! I could easily do that all day without thought of thirst or hunger, especially in the wet suit so we didn't even have to worry about sun burn. Which we definitely got. That night was the hot springs overlooking the ocean. Ahhhhh...so nice

The ferry back to the main island was much better than the first. The train back to Taipei got into town frustratingly late, but what can you do?


Monday, April 6, 2015

Green Island (Part I)

Our train was due to arrive back in Tapei at 10:30pm, which was late enough as it was, but proceeded to be an hour and a half longer. So it's now 1am, we've just returned from lunch/dinner at 7 Eleven (aside from some bun snacks and snickers, we've only eaten breakfast until now), and now we're going to bed. The end.

Thursday, April 2, 2015

Dulan

This town's pretty sweet. An old sugar factory has been turned into artist and crafts(wo)men studios, a gallery, and outdoor stage with awesome driftwood mosaic in the background. The whole place feels very laid back, and more bars/restaurants seem to be more themed or individualized than in other towns. Unique. No rushing here, nothing to rush to. We walked to the beach this morning - aside from it being so hot at 9am, it was great. Sadly it had lots of trash, but what can you expect from the Pacific, I guess? Lots of young people (out age) around as well. Great town.

Today we head back to Taitung and ferry to Green Island. Every person we've talked to has emphasized taking motion sickness pills for the ride, so that could be interesting, especially for the guys who feel woozy after a bus or cab ride. The way people have talked about it, I'm even a little concerned and I don't think I've ever been motion sick from any of the traveling (including many ferries) I've done.

Walami Trail (Part II) (written Thursday on train from Yuli to Taitung)

Two main landscapes on the train from Hualien to Yuli was rice field, high rise mountain, or ocean, highway, mountain. That part of the country is where most of the farming is, especially rice.

We didn't end up staying at the bar, but at a hostel a 10 minute walk away. It had cats...3 that ran in and out and, when in, all over everything. Not my favorite (the nicest way I can put that). It was a relatively dirty place, mostly just from the cats, an the shower was a hose out of the wall in the same space as the toilet, no separation, so house shoes were especially appreciated here.

A common custom is to leave your shoes at the door then wear house shoes (sandals or flip flops) inside.

Our hike yesterday was an adventure and physical feat. We took a taxi to the national park info center, and our driver helped is complete the permit paperwork, even offering his cell as our emergency contact. Then he took us to the police station where we verified and completed our permit. Then he drove us the 6km up to the trail head, which we had originally planned to walk (that would have been awful - blacktop, in the heat, uphill). By the time we were 1/4 up the trail, I had large blisters on each heal and was walking with the backs of my shoes folded forward slip-on style. We saw several monkeys!!! Seeing them in the wild made me feel very different about zoos...And we walked several suspension bridges, so by the return trip they were by so freaky. No black bears or poisonous snakes so that was great. They had enough warning signs that we were all a bit timid about it. One, about the bears, told you what to do if one approached you. The English translation of the last step was, "Do not give up! Struggle to live!" The trail was beautiful, scenery dreamy, and the weather was perfect. Total, we hiked 20.5 miles in 9 hours. That includes a decent amount of picture taking, but only a couple 15 minute breaks. By the time we reached Walami (our turn around point) we were all dehydrated. But we made it! The last 6km was that blacktop mentioned above and, when we reached it, the first thing I did was take off my shoes and walk barefoot. It felt soooo nice. After about 2km of that I slid my shoes back on and it felt like I was walking on pillows. We finished the last couple km in the dark, and reached the police station at 7pm. They gave us water and called a cab back to town for us.

Today I'm surprised I'm not sore or stiff. Coming down the mountain it took a lot of mental effort to keep my mind off my feet (I'd put them on all the way for the descent) and my hips. Today we all feel well.

Yuli is in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today we train south and to the coast to Taitung and bus a bit north to the artsy-music-surfing town of Dulan.

Random cultural note of the day:
- When on an escalator, standing folks stay to the right, walking folks move ahead on the left, and people take that very seriously. There are no crowds to get on. Folks are very particular about lines, and make very neat ones to do everything. Get on the escalator, get noodles, wait for the bus, wait for the train, etc.Type A Angela really enjoys that. No crowds, no mess - which reminds me!

Second random cultural note of the day:
- All public places are so CLEAN. Far cleaner than US (yes, even Duluth) or Europe. From Taipei to small communities, from dark allies to the lowest level of the train stations, there is minimal, usually no, trash. People are constantly sweeping (even in the parks) and washing. I really didn't expect it. Type A me loves that at well.

My only hesitation in coming to Asia was the crowds of people but, in Taipei, a city of 8 million, it was less stressful than walking down the street during Duluth's downtown side walk sales. I also feel the safest everywhere we've been, so far, than anywhere else I've ever been. Ever.

I've heard that the cleanliness and friendliness is very much a Taiwan thing, China much less so.

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Yuli

Made it to Yuli! Just under 6 hours on the train with a transfer in Hualien. Now sitting in the cafe/bar attached to where we'll be staying tonight, playing cards, waiting for the host to come back from the post office. I reeeaaally like it here...definitely the most rustic place I think I've been in, short of the slums in Istanbul. Add friendly cats, a 4-seater bar and a table made from glass laid over a bathtub on a concrete patio open up to trees, birds and clouds. The buildings are allow worn wood, as are the tables and chairs where we sit. It's pretty raw, but somehow it feels soooo cozy. Love it, so far.

Tomorrow is Walami Trail (Google it!). I just want monkeys and a freaky suspension bridge. The guys want to hike 24 miles, half of that straight up a mountain. Will report back if we make it the whole way.